Adios, Rick Bayless: The White House Guest Chef And His Discontents
Bayless as Salahi 2.0: The chef seemed more interested in serving his own career than his President and First Lady
When Chicagoan Rick Bayless was invited to be the guest chef for Wednesday’s State Dinner with Mexico, he was offered both the absolute highest honor an American can have–the opportunity to serve his country–and the highest honor an American chef can achieve. But since announcing his post to the world via a story in the New York Times in mid-May, Bayless has turned his service to his country and to President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama into a disconcerting personal publicity junket. It’s been a stew of hubris, a lack of discretion, and breaching of White House tradition, which included stepping on Mrs. Obama’s role as First Lady.
It began the moment Bayless started spilling State Dinner details to the Times, and continued with his use of Twitter, where he’s been tweeting about the White House since May 12. As the star of the self-created drama of “Twittergate,” Bayless has made sure that the State Dinner was more about him, rather than the larger diplomatic/social mission he was charged with helping create. For future White House guests chefs, Bayless stands as an object lesson in everything not to do when called to serve the country.
White House chefs wear a crest that’s a version of the presidential eagle on their formal chefs’ whites, with little American flags on the collars. They are literally serving their country, and their president. Many of those working in the White House kitchen are long-time vets, with multiple decades of service. The guest chefs who are invited to share this honor are given the opportunity to join a very small, elite corps of highly talented individuals who are literally creating culinary history. The State Dinner with Mexico was a diplomatic event of the utmost importance, set against a backdrop of political tension. Bayless’ behavior has been a low moment in the context of the long history of the White House culinary corps. (Top of post: The First Couple with Mexico’s President Felipe Calderón and Mrs. Margarita Zavala, at the formal arrival for the State Dinner; above: The crest on Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford’s jacket; the other White House chefs have a version that has a darker blue)
Everything was perfect…until Bayless became Salahi 2.0
From a menu t
hat encompassed both the First Lady’s commitment to local, regional and sustainable foods and the cuisine of the honored guests, to the dramatic yet whimsical reception tent filled with hundreds of airborne butterflies in a nod to President Calderón’s birthplace…the White House social staff, led by Social Secretary Julianna Smoot, thought of everything for the event. Staff worked tirelessly, and achieved something very close to perfection. They created an elegant, memorable evening presented by the President and First Lady, spotlighting the best that is America, and celebrating the crucial relationship between the US and Mexico. (Bayless, above)
And as the star of Twittergate, Chef Bayless has been the source of the only bad headlines–and there have been many–for the State Dinner. After months of negative publicity following the first State Dinner of the administration, this one was also the chance for the White House to hit the social reset button. But Bayless became Salahi 2.0, this State Dinner’s version of the crashers who marred the first State Dinner. There’s now no talking about the State Dinner with Mexico without talking about Bayless and Twittergate. And post-dinner, he’s hitting the talk show circuit, and his little scandal during what should have been his silent, shining moment of service, with the President and First Lady in the spotlight, will continue to be discussed. That didn’t have to be the case.
The root of the problem…
Twittergate officially beg
an when Lynn Sweet reported in Chicago Sun-Times that Bayless was breaching protocol and posting White House information on Twitter, and noted that he’d been asked by the White House to stop. Bayless protested–on Twitter–that Sweet “made up” the story, saying that he’d never tweeted from the White House, and that he hadn’t been instructed by anyone in the White House to stop the potentially security-breaching behavior. (A Bayless tweet, above)
The location of where the Tweeting originated wasn’t the critical point. Sweet’s point was that Bayless was leaking White House info on Twitter–and he certainly was. For the record, the White House frowns on tweets about or coming from the kitchen. There’s a good risk of accidentally breaching the food security protocols that are in place to protect the president.
Thursday afternoon, after a period of laudable Twitter silence, with no more comments about the White House and the State Dinner, Bayless roared back with ten new Tweets in a row– “correcting the record” about the White House and Twittergate once again–just in case anyone had managed to forget it.
Bayless tweeted: All made up rumors of my WH Twitter posting have become tiresome. Wanna know the truth? Here goes (not nearly as titilllating as the rumors). He then gave seven points of “truth” about his drama. Clearly, Bayless was well aware he’d caused a big stir in the blogosphere and in the media. If he had any discretion, Bayless would not have tweeted about the White House again, following Round 1 of Twittergate. And sure, in one of his tweets he notes that he was honored to be chosen to be a guest chef…but that just doesn’t make up for the rest of it.
There’s also the question: Why did Bayless originally post Lynn Sweet’s story in his Twitter stream, if it was so offensive? Clearly, Bayless likes publicity, good or bad. And was it perhaps to remind everyone that Rick Bayless is the most important thing about the State Dinner, not the President and First Lady’s efforts at critical diplomatic outreach?
Hubris: The art of the leak in the New York Times, and overstepping his bounds
To compound matter
s, Bayless wasn’t just blurting White House details on Twitter. The leaking and protocol breaching started with the Times story. In what is a fairly historic act of hubris, Bayless overran Mrs. Obama’s prerogative as State Dinner hostess when he told the Times on May 12 some of what he would be cooking as guest chef.
Traditionally, the East Wing releases all menu details on behalf of the First Lady, or the First Lady hosts a menu preview for media to discuss foods and china, etc., on the day of the State Dinner. But Bayless announced, a week in advance of the event, that he’d be preparing Oaxacan black mole, part of the evening’s entree, and herb green ceviche. He even went so far as to provide the Times with the recipe for the ceviche–and he was photographed for the paper with the done dish (above).
And then Bayless tweeted about it, proclaiming: “One of the dishes im serving at the State Dinner!” (sic)
For contrast, when White House Executive Pastry Chef Bill Yosses was interviewed in a different story in the Times, in the same week, and queried about the desserts he’d be prepping for the State Dinner, Yosses stuck strictly to protocol.
“This is Mrs. Obama’s house,” Yosses gently pointed out. “It’s not my place to say what dessert she might serve.”
Another breach
Bayless also told the Times that Yosses would be using locally sourced strawberries for his desserts. Not satisfied with the Times and Twitter, Bayless gave an interview to NPR, further embellishing on his menu plans. And in the same Times piece, Bayless breached protocol further by announcing the head count for the State Dinner. Again, that’s something that’s not revealed by the East Wing until the day of the event, when the list of expected attendees is made public late in the afternoon.
Bayless on shortcomings of the White House kitchen
Bayless was tweeting about the White House even before he arrived in DC. The tweets continued after he got to Washington, because in the midst of what was supposed to be his service to his country, Bayless was publicly lamenting all the “problems” the White House was presenting for him. To the Times, and on Twitter and elsewhere, Bayless worried that the White House couldn’t find the “rare” ingredients he needed (really? It’s the White House), he mentioned that he was worried about the size of the White House kitchen (too small!), he complained that he couldn’t send his own food into the White House, he noted that it was a battle to be allowed to bring in his own knives.
In a post-dinner interview given to Esquire after the last bite of State Dinner Wagyu beef had been consumed, Bayless continued the complaining, and said that the only problem he had with creating the dinner was the junky jello the White House gave him:
“They got us this gelatin that we’d never worked with before,” Bayless said. “And the little jellies didn’t ever set up. We had to remake them twice before we got them to do what we wanted them to do.”
But, Bayless adds, he made it all work in the end, despite the incompetence of the White House. And he spent a lot of print inches worrying about his mole sauce, too.
“They’re not used to making those kinds of things in the White House,” Bayless told Esquire. “So I was concerned about whether they would know good quality from bad quality. So I sent them a care package of all the different specialized ingredients. And they got it.”
Again, really? Bayless sent food into the White House? Both the act of sending and the idea of bringing outside food in are unlikely. And why the public tweeting about the White House having difficult finding his ingredients, if Bayless had sent ingredients in? This is not a question I’m going to ask the White House to confirm or clarify; I know enough about food security protocol to understand that questions about food sourcing get a “no comment.” You’ll note on the State Dinner menu that the Wagyu beef for the entree is identified as from “Oregon,” but there’s no farm named.
For the record, the White House has hosted seven different State Dinners for Mexico. Not to mention the fact that both President Bushes and President Lyndon B. Johnson were Texans, and huge fans of Mexican food, which was routinely created in the White House kitchen. And there’s probably no cuisine that “can’t” be cooked at the White House.
Adios, Rick Bayless…vaya con Dios
The White House has nothing to do with Bayless’ bad behavior, obviously. Everything for the State Dinner was planned perfectly, and the event was superb. Unfortunately, the chef’s behavior couldn’t be planned for.
And Bayless seems entirely unaware that he’s done anything wrong, too. In one of his “correcting the record” tweets from Thursday, Bayless wrote “State Dinner@WH went off without hitch.Flavors were mine…”.
Without a hitch? Bayless himself is the hitch.
Another tweet from the same series (above) makes no sense. If Bayless understands security and privacy…why would he continue to tweet about the White House–when he was already aware that he’d caused a big, negative stir??
In the end, it’s Bayless who will get burned by a situation that’s become a little too hot to handle. The White House has become the center of America’s culinary landscape. Many of the high-profile chefs who have been invited to serve their country by cooking at the White House are welcomed back again and again. Chefs Art Smith, Bobby Flay, and Jose Andres have each been guest chefs multiple times. Bayless, who in skill may be the equal of his peers, is not their equal in discretion. He will be the one chef who doesn’t get called to serve his country again.
That’s a prediction, but I’d bet the Blackberry I tweet from on it, wink wink wink.
If Bayless returns to the White House during the Obama years–I’ll eat that Blackberry. Topped with some Oaxacan mole, and a side dish of green ceviche.
For the record, the White House has declined to comment on Bayless.
Note:
To clarify about the White House and Twitter: As noted in this post, non-kitchen visitors who arrive at the White House for certain meetings are sometimes asked to surrender their phones, or specifically instructed not to Tweet. Journalists, including this one, use Twitter at the White House. White House Press Secretary Robert Gibbs and Deputy Press Secretary Bill Burton do, too. But there’s a big difference between journalists tweeting, and a guest chef who is dishing up privileged info to the world. Especially if it involves a potential security breach or privacy issue–as discussing White House food protocol necessarily does. Tweeting from the White House kitchen is frowned upon.
Photos: Formal arrival at top of post and crest by Obama Foodorama; Ceviche by New York Times; Bayless from publicity
View full post on Obama Foodorama

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